September heralds the end of the summer; evenings become darker and the whole countryside turns to golden brown. The last of the summer crops are harvested, and wild berries and fruits ripen. Wild mushrooms and other weird fungi erupt in the forest and meadows, while on the sea bed molluscs become plump in their shells, and flatfish are as fat as butter after their summer foraging. Migratory birds gather in the skies ready for their long trip south, as waterfowl arrive in sea estuaries that are their winter home. Even in these modern days of large scale production and imported foods, the power of the changing seasons makes it mark on the food available from the land and sea.
The Bangor Mussel Fishery
The winter months are the season for many seafoods including oysters and mussels, and it's the latter that has developed into a major managed fishery in North Wales. The area of the Menai Straits between Bangor and Beaumaris and out into the Conwy Bay is now the largest mussel fishery in Britain. Several state-of-the-art mussel dredgers work the beds, relaying the tiny 'spat' (baby mussels) from unsuitable intertidal areas into the deep water 'lays' where mussels will grow to market size within twelve months. The bulk of the harvest, that can be up to 50% of the total British landings, is exported to the ready and eager European markets in France, Holland and Belgium.
The powerful mussel dredgers are based at Port Penrhyn, Bangor and have been instrumental in reviving the traditional mussel fishery of the Conwy estuary. For centuries this was all done by hand, raking the mussels from flat-bottomed mussel boats - a very laborious task that was inefficient in the modern age - and consequently the industry was moribund. The dredgers perform the re-laying task in a matter of days, instead of many months, and now the fishery is viable and flourishing. Most importantly it is supplying the local market to hotels and restaurants with superb, prime quality, cleaned live mussels. These are a speciality every day through the season at the Shakespeare Restaurant in the Castle Hotel in Conwy (01492-582800)
Purchasing and storing mussels
Mussels can be purchased from most fishmongers during the season (September - April), or from wholesalers and growers (see below). By law these will have been purified in clean water to rid of any bacteria. They should be tightly closed and smell fresh. Avoid those with heavy covering of barnacles or weed, as it is time consuming to clean them.
Tips:
Keep mussels tightly packed in the bottom of the refrigerator until required. Do not immerse in water (this will 'drown' them) When required rinse well in cold water Remove any of the threads - the bissus - that may remain Discard any broken mussels and those which gape and fail to close during handling or when tapped sharply Steam with a lid on in 1cm of fluid (see recipes) over a high heat. Shake saucepan after 2 minutes. The mussels are cooked when they are open - about 3 - 4 minutes Discard any that have not opened. Serve immediately with all the cooking liquid. Recipes
The classic 'moules mariniere' is mussels steamed in a mixture of white wine, shallots and herbs. It is a basic, rustic and utterly delicious dish. There can be many variations on the theme, adding garlic, celery, spices, chilli, tomato, herbs, different wines, cider, beer and aromats. But the fundamental point is not to overcook the mussels as they lose water content and become tougher. If mussels are used in a re-cooked recipe as 'moules farcies' topped with garlic butter and perhaps breadcrumbs, they must be cooked very quickly and just sufficient to warm through.
The cooking 'liquid'
It can be basic as simply wine, beer, cider, or dry sherry, or simply water. The flavour is definitely enhanced by making a classic 'moules mariniere'
1 kilo clean mussels prepared as above
100 g shallots, finely chopped
25ml oil
25g butter
1 large sprig thyme; 2 bay leaves; 1 sprig parsley chopped
200ml dry white wine
freshly milled black pepper
lemon wedges and lots chopped fresh parsley
In a large covered pan, gently fry shallots in oil and butter until transparent. Add herbs and wine and simmer for 2 - 3 minutes. Add mussels, cover with a well fitting lid, and cook at full heat, shaking pan a few times, for about 3 minutes or until the shells are all open. Serve in large bowls, with all cooking liquid, dredged in parsley and lemon wedges.
Note: some people add cream at the end of cooking, or thicken the juices with a 'beurre manie'. I consider the basic recipe to be the best. Dry sherry is a good substitute for the wine, then drink a Dry Manzanilla Sherry with the mussels.
To purchase mussels
Fishmongers and markets should stock mussels during the season.
The Fish Shop, Builder Street, Llandudno LL30 1DR
Tel: 01492 870430
Fish on the Quay, Aberaeron SA46 0BT
Tel: 01545 571294
Pembrokeshire Sea Fayre, Tenby Market, Tenby
01834 844811
Seafood Rotunda, Swansea Market, Oxford Street, Swansea
Tel: 01792 654294
Ashton's Fishmongers, Cardiff Central Market, High Street, Cardiff
Tel: 029 2022 9201
Growers and wholesalers:
Conwy Mussel Company, The Quay, Conwy LL32 8BB
Trevor Jones
Tel: 01492 592347
Menai Oysters, Tal Bont Bach, LlanfairPG, Anglesey LL61 6UU
Tel: 01248 430878
Email: theoysterman@eidosnet.co.uk
Gower Coast Seafoods, Pen Cae Fenni Road, Crofty, Gower SA4 3SW
Tel: 01792 850796
Penclawdd Seafoods, Lynch Factory, Llanmorlais, Swansea SA4 3TN
Tel: 01792 850033
Website: www.selwynsseafoods.co.uk
Email: selwynsseafoods@freenetname.co.uk
Exporters
Myti Mussels, Port Penrhyn, Bangor LL57 4HN
Tel: 01248 354878
Email: kimmussels@hotmail.com
Deep Dock Ltd,
Tel: 01407 730588
Food Fairs in Wales
The Abergavenny Food Festival 20 - 21 September 2003
One of the most exciting food festivals in Wales is centered on Abergavenny, described by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall as 'when the Welsh Boarders come alive with fun and feasting.' Events take place all over the town, including the Market Hall, the Castle, and the Angel Hotel.
This year guest celebrities include Jill Dupleix, Georgio Lacatelli, Jonathan Meades, Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray, and Franco Taruschio. The Market Hall will feature a True Taste exhibition with over 70 speciality food producers. Children will be entertained at cookery classes held in the castle while parents can relax.
Full details of all events and places to stay can be found on:
www.abergavennyfoodfestival.co.uk
or contact Abergavenny Tourist Information Centre
Tel: 01873 857588
Abergavenny.tic@monmouthshire.gov.uk
Swansea market Food Festival Monday 29 September - Saturday 4 October
The longest running food festival in Wales is staged in Swansea market, the largest covered market in Wales and renowned for its wonderful selection of local foods from Gower and the area. Cookery demonstrations every day, entertainment from local school choirs and Gourmet Evenings are among the week-long attractions
Full details from Anita.Thomas@swansea.gov.uk
Welsh Cheese Guide by style
The old image of cheese from Wales was purely of Caerphilly and cheddar, mainly made in large creameries with no particular distinction. Now there are many smaller farm producers making significant quantities of cheese in a variety of styles. There are also larger co-operatives that make only from milk from their members and though larger in scale make fine quality cheeses that can compete in the main markets.
The following is a guide to the styles of cheese now available from Welsh producers. There are more than these produced, particularly flavoured cheeses. Many of these cheeses are available through the newly-formed group Cheeses from Wales.
Fresh cheeses
Pantysgawn
Fresh, soft organic goat's cheese Pant Mawr goat's in oil
Fresh soft goat's cheese in olive oil Soft Cheeses
Pant Mawr Preseli
Soft creamy brie in flat rounds, with natural rind full astringent flavour Perl Wen - Caws Cenarth
Firm, creamy brie in flat rounds, from organic milk with long pure flavour Washed rind / unpressed
St Davids - Abergavenny Fine Foods
Semi soft washed rind in flat rounds, with mature farm flavour Pant Mawr Cerwyn
Semi hard, in flat rounds, un-pressed mature, rich flavour Saval - Teifi Farmhouse Cheeses
Washed rind, thick rounds, un-pasteurised, creamy mature flavour Celtic Promise - Teifi farmhouse Cheeses
Extra mature Saval, small rounds, rich farmyard flavours Semi Hard Cheeses
Acorn Ewe's Milk - Little Acorn
Small pressed truckles, natural rind, creamy, mild, astringent flavour and crumbly texture Skirrid Ewe's Milk - Little Acorn
Small truckles, mead-washed rind, deep creamy sweet-astringent flavour and crumbly texture St Florence - mild cheddar
Pressed rounds with cloth rind, mild flavoured, sharp finish and crumbly texture Caerphilly
Caws Cenarth Organic
Full creamy organic 4 kilo wheels, with complex round flavour and firm texture from pedigree herd farm Caerfai Organic
Traditional style wheels with creamy astringency and long sharp flavour Gorwydd
Real farmhouse style in 4 kilo wheels and natural, dark rind, creamy texture and aromatic farmyard mushroom savour Welsh Cheddar
From the farming co-operatives and larger companies, packaged for retail distribution
Hen Sir Mature Cheddar Snowdonia Mature Cheddar Castle Dairies Organic Cheddar Aeron Valley Welsh Gold Hard cheeses
Merlin Goat's milk
Pure white, hard, mature, in small waxed rounds with deep complex flavour Caws Celtica Ewe's milk Lammas
Hard, mature small rounds, with deep astringent slightly crumbly pecorino texture Teifi Farmhouse Gouda
Large gouda style rounds of firm, creamy whole milk, un-pasteurised with rich, deep flavour Nantybwla Cheddar
Traditional truckles of mature cheddar in true farmhouse style, full-flavoured and sharp finish Llangloffan Cheddar
Large, traditional truckles, extra-mature farmhouse cheddar with rich flavour and sharp finish Llanboidy Cilowen Organic
Traditional organic farmhouse cheddar from pedigree Red Poll herd, firm, medium mature with deep rich flavour Penbryn Organic
Hand made, traditional un-pasteurised small truckles, hard texture, creamy rich flavour Blue Cheeses
Cenarth Perl Las
Hard style, small truckles, blue veined, mature lively flavour Gorau Glas
Semi soft, small rounds, intensely blue with creamy rich full flavour Flavoured and Smoked Cheeses
Most producers make some flavoured or smoked cheeses, many of which are commercially popular.
These are some examples:
Tintern with chives Y Fenni with mustard and ale Llanboidy with laverbread Teifi with nettles Snowdonia Green Thunder Merlin with garlic Smoked Cerwyn Smoked Celtica For further information go to the homepage of www.walesthetruetaste.com and click on Welsh Cheese
